If you ask anyone in Indonesia where the best culinary travel destination is, the name "Bandung" will undoubtedly be at the top of the list. The "City of Flowers" offers more than just cool air and scenic views; it boasts an endless array of delicious dishes. But have you ever wondered about the history of Bandung as a culinary city?
This culinary evolution didn't happen overnight. It is a blend of long-standing history, strategic geography, local culture, and the sheer creativity of its people that earned Bandung the title of "Culinary Heaven." Let’s trace the journey.
Early Tracks: Dutch Colonial Influence in "Parijs van Java"
The development of Bandung’s culinary scene is inseparable from the Dutch East Indies colonial era. In the early 20th century, Bandung was planned to be the administrative capital, replacing Batavia (now Jakarta). The cool climate and mountainous terrain, reminiscent of Europe, made Dutch settlers feel right at home.
As European elites flocked to the city, Bandung earned the nickname Parijs van Java (Paris of Java). This brought with it a European lifestyle, including the culture of drinking coffee and eating bread in cafes, particularly around the iconic Braga Street.
Several legendary culinary landmarks from this era still stand today:
Braga Permai (formerly Maison Bogerijen): Established in 1923, this restaurant was a witness to Dutch elites enjoying pastries, ice cream, and Western dishes.
Kopi Aroma: A legendary coffee shop founded in the 1930s that still uses traditional wood-fired roasting methods.
Sumber Hidangan: A classic bakery where the recipes and atmosphere seem frozen in the Dutch colonial era.
This "cafe culture" laid the foundation for Bandung's future as a destination for food enthusiasts.
Natural Wealth and Sundanese Gastronomic Traditions
Beyond European influence, the history of Bandung as a culinary city is deeply rooted in Sundanese tradition. The fertile land of the Parahyangan highlands allowed the local community to stay close to nature, which is reflected in their fresh-ingredient-focused cuisine.
The culture of eating lalapan (fresh raw vegetables) accompanied by sambal (chili paste) is a core identity of Sundanese food. Furthermore, the local people became masters at fermenting ingredients into extraordinary dishes, such as oncom (fermented peanut press cake) and peuyeum (fermented cassava).
The combination of simple yet flavorful Sundanese traditions and openness to foreign cooking techniques created a palate that is adventurous and innovative.
The Era of Massive Street Food Innovation
The massive leap that solidified Bandung's status occurred between the 1980s and 1990s. During this time, the creativity of the Urang Sunda (Sundanese people) shone through the innovation of street food, or jajanan.
Bandung residents became known as "tapioca starch (aci) specialists." From affordable tapioca flour, they created dozens of revolutionary snacks that have now spread across Indonesia, such as:
Cilok: Steamed starch balls (Aci dicolok)
Cimol: Small fried starch balls (Aci digemol)
Cireng: Fried starch pancakes (Aci digoreng)
Batagor: Fried fish dumplings served with peanut sauce.
Seblak: Spicy wet crackers cooked with aromatic galangal.
This creativity extended beyond the food itself to unique, catchy abbreviations that made these snacks easy to remember and viral even before the internet age.
The Rise of Factory Outlets and Modern Cafe Culture
By the late 1990s and early 2000s, Bandung experienced a tourism boom driven by Factory Outlets (FO) and local fashion brands. Tourists, especially from Jakarta, flooded the city every weekend.
Business owners realized that shoppers needed comfortable places to eat after a day of shopping. This led to the mushrooming of themed cafes, restaurants, and food courts in areas like Jalan Riau, Dago, and Cihampelas.
Simultaneously, highland areas like Lembang and Punclut were transformed into "nature dining" spots, offering a combination of delicious food and breathtaking views of the city lights or pine forests—a unique selling point that urban centers couldn't match.
Social Media: The Catalyst for Viral Trends
In today's digital age, social media has acted as a catalyst to perfect Bandung's status. Any new food trend appearing in Bandung—from "artisan" cakes and modern martabak to aesthetically pleasing cafes—quickly goes viral on Instagram and TikTok.
Bandung has become Indonesia’s "Culinary Laboratory." Many food entrepreneurs test their products here first. If a product survives the critical palate of Bandung locals, it is almost guaranteed to be a national success.
Conclusion
The history of Bandung as a culinary city is a harmonious journey between past history, geography, and a culture that never stops innovating. From the remnants of luxury colonial cafes and the warmth of traditional Sundanese dishes to the boundless creativity of street side aci snacks, everything unites to form a strong gastronomic identity.